Dog Collars & Dog Training Collars

Make sure the collar fits properly.  Be aware that many injuries are associated with dog collars, so don't take the purchase lightly.  You will hear that choke collars can harm your dog - and they can - but other collars can harm your dog if you use them wrongly.  

The World of Dog Collars

You probably don't want to hear this, but there are a lot of collars to choose from and lots of types of collars.  Each of the experts has a few favorites they promote, and each of the experts recommend against a few, but of course, they don't all agree.  It seems safe to say that any particular collar can be either effective or ineffective; or humane or harsh depending on the handler and the dog.  You should choose the type of collar that you think will be effective and humane for you and your dog.  If you feel comfortable with these two issues, then that collar will work fine for you.  Type, quality, comfort, and safety are the guides in selecting the collars.  

You will need to get at least two collars.  One can be just a simple buckle collar, and the other should be the training collar.  The training collar is the one that you will use for your "training" time together.  As the years go by, you will need to buy new collars as your dog grows larger. 

The Fit of a Dog Collar

All the experts agree that the fit of a dog collar is right when you can fit 1 1/2 fingers to 2 fingers between the dog collar and the dog's neck. 

Don't Yank the Leash! - Risk of Trachea Damage 

Yanking the leash is the real issue with avoiding injury to your dog.  This goes both ways - the dog yanking you, or you yanking back.  The risk to your dog is injury to the trachea from collars that apply pressure to the front of the neck when they try to pull away from you.  Sooner or later this happens to everyone.  (Usually sooner, like on the first walk!)  It is primarily this risk of injury to the trachea that gets all the attention when talking about dog collars.  There is word of a German study of 50 dogs on choke collars that were followed through their lives and upon their deaths, 46 were found to have damage to the neck, trachea or back.  So all owners need to be careful with choke collars. 

Buckle collars (or Traditional Collars)

A buckle collar should be your basic everyday collar.  The buckle collar serves several purposes.  First, it is the primary method of placing an ID on your dog.  Second, it is the primary method of "linking" your dog to you when you go for a walk (after they have been trained to behave on the walk).  Third, it is the easiest way to gain control of your dog (grab the collar) when she is "off leash."  Your dog should have a collar on all day or almost all day.  Buckle collars are available in lots of styles.  They should ride high on your dog's neck, not down near the shoulder blades. 

Your puppy should start wearing a collar as early as possible.  No puppy likes the feel of a collar initially.  They usually try to pull it off with their paws.  So they need to get used to the feel of a collar as early as possible, since they will need one as soon as you are ready to take them outside. 

Training Collars  - Time to Learn

It seems that almost everything gets called a training collar, even if it is not a collar.  It is common to see a dog harness listed under descriptions of training collars, but they are not really collars.  However, dog harnesses are alternatives to training collars, (so maybe that is why they get listed).  In order to keep things a little easier to follow, harnesses are on their own separate page.  Click on the links to go to that page. 

Either way, the real issue is that the idea of a training collar is a collar that can be used to give correction to your dog while you are giving them some form of instruction.  The normal form of correction given by the dog owner is a pull or tug on the leash and then the collar or harness reacts in different ways to let your dog know that she is being corrected. Some of the methods of correction are obvious from the name of the collar.  Choke collars choke; pinch collars pinch; shock collars shock.  Others are not so obvious. 

It is good practice to use the training collar on your dog in the house first.  It is only fair to you and your dog both to get used to this situation in the house where there are fewer distractions to both of you.  Also, after you are done the training session, switch her back to her normal (buckle) collar. 

In all cases, when you give the correction, the normal method is to give a tug and release on the leash so your dog gets the message of the correction and only that message you intend.  (I'm going to repeat this message under each heading - try not to be too annoyed with me.)

Below is a listing of most of the dog collars you will see out there listed as "training collars" and a brief description of how they work.  

Choke Collars (or Slip Collars)

This is probably the most commonly purchased collar.  It works fine when used properly, but it is frequently used improperly and trachea damage occurs to your dog.  There is a right way and a wrong way to put this collar on your dog.  The right way releases the choke effect when you lay off on the leash.  The wrong way can leave the collar choking even after you lay off the leash.  This is bad for two reasons: first, you can harm your dog's neck and second, your dog will not get the correction message because the choking never stops so she doesn't know what she was being corrected for. 

The "right way" assumes that you have your leash in your left hand and your dog on your left side when taken for a walk.  If this is the case, then the collar should be put on your dogs neck forming the letter "p" (as you face your dog head on) and not the letter "q."  This way, when the leash goes slack, the chain loop in the choke collar can fall down to loosen the choke effect.  In the letter "q" form, the chain loop has a tendency to rotate to the bottom of the neck and then can't fall down when the leash goes slack - and the choke effect is not released.  (If you walk your dog on your right side, then use the letter "q" form.)

In all cases, when you give the correction, the normal method is to give a tug and release on the leash so your dog gets the message of the correction and only that message you intend. 

If your dog is always pulling away hard from you, then you should not use the choke collar, until she learns to stop the constant pulling. 
 

Pinch Collars (or Prong Collars)

Pinch collars sometimes make people concerned that they are harming or punishing their dog with its pinching effect.  The look of a pinch collar reminds one of a torture device.  It is made up of pronged U-shaped metal pieces that link together.  However, there is no torture with this collar.  As noted above, you can harm your dog with any collar, but there is no need to be concerned about the pinch collar being worse than other collars.  In fact, it is probably better.  Like any other collar, it needs to be fit properly; and no yanking on the leash!  When fit properly, the collar's prongs will pinch your dog's neck with an evenly distributed pressure that does not harm her.  It also seems that many experts think that dogs respond better to pinch collars.  The experts that like pinch collars refer to them as "power steering for dogs" collars.  They seem to be best suited for larger, thick neck dogs, but some trainers swear by them for all but the smallest of dogs.  Many experts also recommend that a looser fitting back up collar be used with pinch collars because pinch collars seem to have a tendency to spring open over time. 

Pinch collars with coated prongs are better than bare metal prongs.  You can even test the pinch collar yourself by putting it around your thigh, fit it properly and tug on the leash.  (For more fun put it around somebody else's leg!  or how about your spouses neck and then try some of that power steering! ) 

In all cases, when you give the correction, the normal method is to give a tug and release on the leash so your dog gets the message of the correction and only that message you intend. 

If your dog is always pulling away hard from you, then you should not use the pinch collar, until she learns to stop the constant pulling. 

That same German study mentioned in the choke collar section, also looked at 50 dogs on pinch collars for their whole lives and upon their deaths their autopsies showed that only 2 had signs of neck injury.  This remarkably small number is most likely due to the "even pressure" effect that the pinch collar has on your dog's neck as opposed to the "pressure point" effect that the choke collar has on the front of your dog's neck. 

It is only fair to say that some trainers don't like the pinch collar at all.  It seems to me to be a principle thing and not really based on a concern of harming your dog. 

Martingale Collar (or Greyhound Collars)

Martingale collars are a gentler alternative to the choke collar.  It is a self adjusting collar that tightens evenly around your dog's neck if she pulls away, and it does so without risk of choking your dog.  Martingale collars are also bi-directional; you can control with the leash from either side of the dog, without changing the collar. 

Shock Collar (or Electric Collar)  anti bark collar,

Shock collars do just that.  They deliver a variable level of shock to your dog.  They are used with a remote control and they require a lot of knowledge to use properly.  Trainers will use them rarely.  They caution against non-professionals using them.    

Anti-bark Collar